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Live from the Wind(s) of Antarctica. Dec. 19, 2023.


twangster

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Just as it was time to leave a penguin blocked our path.

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At this intersection of the penguin and redcoat highways penguins have the right of way and we always yield to them so we had wait while it checked us out.

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Penguins are always on the go so it didn't take long and we were able to load a zodiac for our cruise back to the ship weaving through the wind blown ice.

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A short walk on land but it was very interesting to have some time to watch the penguin drama playing out on and around the nests.

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At the daily recap and briefing the topic was the wind and weather.

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We were supposed to head back towards the South Shetland Islands but the swell forecast would all but eliminate the idea of loading zodiacs so the decision was made to stay here in the protection of the Antarctic Sound.  Instead of Half Moon Bay it will be Wilhelmina Bay.  

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Wilhelmina Bay is just North of Orne Harbour and it encompasses a large area so we will find out more as we approach in the morning.

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Gert had just come back from coordinating our stop on Cuverville Island and upon his return to the ship minutes before this briefing he had been summoned to the bridge. 

The Captain didn't want to begin our Drake Passage transit on the original schedule.  Instead we will pause waiting for the weather to improve.  He has tasked Gert with finding us an area to explore for the afternoon while we wait.  Since Gert had just learned of his new task he had yet to plan where we may go. 

This is the nature of expedition cruising and I didn't hear anyone complain we will remain longer in the Antarctica Peninsula for an extra stop.

Stay tuned.

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As we entered Wilhelmina Bay the snow started. 

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The beautiful weather has left us and "normal" Antarctic weather has found us.

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The bay is known for whales as it is very deep and our hope today was to see whale action.

At 6:50am as I was waiting for The Restaurant to open for breakfast I was on my balcony when I heard the unmistaken sound of a whale blow and it was close.  

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The whale went through a couple of breathing cycles before doing a deep dive.

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The glaciers don't look that big from a distance but closer the face of these glaciers proved to be massive.

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Closer to shore Sara our zodiac driver pointed out that ice was beginning to form on the surface of the water.

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Eventually if conditions allow this to continue pancake ice can form.

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Many areas along the face looked like they were ready to calve.

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So many interesting iceberg formations.

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Secretly we all were hoping to see whales but with reduced visibility they would have had to surface pretty close to the zodiac and unfortunately that did not happen.

We thought we saw a penguin on an iceberg.

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It turned out to be an Antarctic Cormorant.

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After 75 minutes or so it was back to the ship.

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The ship's position for our zodiac tour of Wilhelmenia Bay.

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Given the snow storm and weather system moving across Drakes Passage above us we will turn South and cruise the Neumayer Channel for a ship cruise of the area.  This route will take us through another whale hotspot. 

Alas no more zodiac rides.

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Information posted for our consumption:

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As we sailed out of Wilhelmina Bay and entered the main channel a two masted schooner appeared through the haze.

As the Amazone moved closer it occured to me how relatively small this vessel seemed when pictured among the icebergs.  

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At 39m the Amazone is 5m shorter than the three masted Endeavour yet it was easy to imagine the likes of Shackleton, Scott, Byrd and dozens of other early Antarctic explorers plying these same waters in similar sized vessels oh so long ago.

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Pondering those masted schooners and the early Antarctic explorers while enjoying modern luxuries under heaters while drinking a Chilean beer at The Grill.

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The snow was letting up but I could see it covering the satellite antenna dome for the TV system contrasted to the tiny yet powerful modern Starlink antenna beside it.

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Despite the snow and light rain the Starlink internet system continued to perform well.

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Alas it was time for the Christmas tree to come down.

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The ship may need this line at Puerto Williams 🤣.

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Around 3pm we seemed to be steering away from the center of the channel towards land.

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The entrance to the Neumayer Channel lay ahead.

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Some calving action on the port side.

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On both sides the sharp edges of glacier faces or those of glaciated snowfields suggested there had been recent action.  It was quite remarkable.

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The Neumayer Channel.

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This is a panoramic stitch of ten photos.  The texture and shading of the clouds will forever be burnt into my mind.  This picture does a poor job representing the magic of the scene before us.

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A small Argentinian research station near where an Aurora Expeditions ship was putting out its kayakers. 

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The end is near.  The end of the Neumayer Channel that is.

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Then on queue right where we had been told to expect them, the whales began to appear.

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Whale sightings were frequent.

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A Chilean naval ship.

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I've submitted these photos to the Happy Whale project.

https://happywhale.com/

Perhaps it will help to track the migration path of these magnificent creatures.

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Each fluke is unique but other characteristics of the hump and other areas are also unique to each individual whale. 

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This pair stuck close to each other. 

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Earlier today Andrew presented an enrichment talk about Humpback whales.  He mentioned that often when you see a pair of whales with one larger than the other staying close to each other it may be a mother with a calf.  

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I'm not certain that is the case with these two but it makes for a nice story so I'm going with it.

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Enough about whales!  

I've refrained from posting more whale pictures but rest assured there were many more sightings.

The coastline appeared to be one very long glacial face birthing icebergs hourly.

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This recently calved growler was finding its equilibrium rolling before our eyes.

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So many interesting icebergs.

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The bridge team brought us closer for a better look.

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Our final daily recap and briefing was held this evening.  Among a number of topics Sara reminded us again about the IAATO Antarctic Ambassador Expedition Challenge. 

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The guests that completed the challenge on board were called on stage and presented with certificates.

You can also complete the challenge on the IAATO website.

Just before dinner I captured our position and track through the Neumayer Channel.

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At 21:45 it was the crew talent show.  

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Amazing talent among the crew.  Impressive.

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Just before bed it was one last position report now that we have made the turn North.

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Ready or not, Drake Passage here we come.

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Captain's noon address just now.

Seas at 3m are expected to remain until 1am at which point they will improve.  In the Captain's words it's a relatively good day in the Drake.

I'm kind of disappointed.  I guess I'll have to come back to experience the real Drake Passage.

Live from the Drake Passage aboard the Silver Wind.

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The Silver Wind has a complimentary laundrette on deck four forward.

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It's a compact space with 3 sets of washers and dryers.  

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There are complimentary laundry pods available containing powdered laundry soap compatible with the ship's bioengineering systems.

The trick is finding time when 200+ other guests are also vying for laundry resources.

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