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Jewel of the Seas Review


donalk

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This is perhaps a timely review following Matt's Brilliance cruise at the weekend. He has posted great pics of a post refurb Radiance class ship, here's a look at one that remains "as is". This is also a mirror of the itinerary Matt did in 2013, but in reverse order, so from the outset, I must acknowledge that his observations were important in how we approached our cruise. Cruise Critic members may recognise this, I posted much of this over there under my CC user name 'madra2112;.

 

The background. My wife celebrated a significant birthday in October. Obviously a gentleman doesn't reveal a lady's age, suffice it to say I'm 51 and she's a bit younger!

 

Our roles when it comes to cruising are reasonably well laid out. I plan, book, research, listen to the podcast, read and post here and on Cruise Critic, prepare folders and action plans, fill in ESTA forms, renew the travel insurance and draw up a timetable of excursions.

 

She lives in the real world, and enjoys the cruise when the time comes.

 

This time, I was adamant that she should be centrally involved in the planning, as this was her birthday cruise, and in late 2014, started asking her what she wanted to do. Her response was very succinct. "I want to go to Barbados, and you work away after that".

 

Fair enough, and with that in mind, the research started.

 

When Jewel came up as an option, I was drawn to it immediately. The Radiance class seems to have a particular place in the hearts of the Royal community, and Matt had written and podcasted very positively on his experience on that route. I was also intrigued by San Juan, and the more I had heard of it, the more it struck me as a place I wanted to visit.

 

And so, the planning began. Surf the net, listen to back episodes of the podcast, confirm the decision, book the cruise. I also looked very carefully at Celebrity Summit, which had an almost identical itinerary. However, Matt's Jewel review swayed it, and by the end of last year, Jewel was booked for the first week in November, visiting Barbados, St Lucia, Antigua, St Maarten and St Croix.

 

Months turned into weeks, weeks into days, and suddenly, it was the last day of work before the break. I work as a journalist, and was scanning the Irish Daily Mail, when my eye was drawn to an article about the traits and characteristics that define a gentleman. The last column is........interesting!

 

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However, the next day, after an overnight stay in the Clayton Hotel Dublin Airport, we flew via JFK to.........San Juan, Puerto Rico!

 

One very handy aspect of flying from Dublin is there is a US Customs centre in Dublin airport, the idea being that you clear immigration and security before travelling.

 

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The formidable gentleman processing us questioned us about our plans, as soon as we mentioned cruising, it emerged he has 20+ RCI cruises under his belt, and was heading for Venice to catch Splendour the following week. 

 

In the unlikely event that he's reading this, I hope you had a wonderful cruise my friend!

 

We flew Aer Lingus into JFK, landing just ahead of schedule. Aer Lingus has a special partnership deal with Jet Blue, which meant we had one ticket, we were issued Jet Blue boarding passes in Dublin, and our luggage was checked straight through from Dublin to San Juan.

 

We had been offered two options when booking. One was a Jet Blue flight to SJ an hour after we landed in JFK, the other was a 4.5 hour layover. o be safe and sure, we chose the longer stop. When we landed, we were off the plane at 1.30pm we checked the boards, walked to the gate where the 2.20pm San Juan was showing, to find they hadn't started boarding yet. 

 

However, we waited, read books, explored Terminal 5 and spend some time 'Up on the Roof'.

 

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And so, after a relatively relaxing day in the air, we landed in San Juan and were whisked to the Hotel Miramar. 

 

The next morning, I got up and walked around the Condada Lagoon and the South Eastern tip of Old San Juan. Beautiful. Already, I was convinced we'd done the right thing.

 

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After breakfast and a shower, we caught the M3 bus into the Old San Juan bus station, and began our sightseeing. We headed down Paseo de Princessa to the Raices Fountain, a lovely spot looking over towards the Bacardi factory.

 

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Then we headed towards the gate in the City Walls with a decision to make. I wanted to walk the Paseo Del Morro over to the base of the fort, she didn't. We compromised. I walked to the fort, while she sat under a tree in the shade and read a book.

 

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I was delighted to see that while the walking guide I had printed off noted that there was no access to the fort from the Paseo, that information was outdated, and the path is now completed. A long walk, followed by a climb up to the fort, and I soon found a guy who looked as thirsty as me!

 

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After 25 minutes and almost a litre of water, I got back to Pauline, and we went through the gate into the old city. We went into the cathedral, and then hit Calle Del Christo. Halfway up the hill, we decided to stop for lunch, and where better to do so than in a traditional San Juan institution?.

 

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That really hit the spot!. Then, it was up to El Morro.

 

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I then made a detour back towards the city gate. I'd read in a book about La Rogativa, a plaza and sculpture commemorating the night when a British invasion force retreated when the Bishop of San Juan and a group of women marched through the city with torches praying very loudly for the men, who were away fighting. The various accounts I've read differ on how deliberate or calculated this was, but either way, it appears the British took them for Spanish reinforcements and scarpered!

 

I found it, and it was indeed a lovely spot.

 

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At this stage, being Irish, we're not really used to heat and humidity, and we were getting a little tired.

 

Thankfully, the free tourist trolley arrived, with some free seats this time, so we hopped on and travelled through town as far as La Casita.

 

There we got off, and strolled along the El Malacon boardwalk. Seabourn Odyssey was berthed there, and across the water at the Pan American Pier, Adventure OTS and Celebrity Summit were ready to start their respective week long cruises. Tomorrow, it would be a different ship!

 

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We then crossed over to the bus station and caught the M3 back to the hotel. There's a really small patch of sand (beach is too ambitious a word) just on the corner of the bridge a few minutes walk from the hotel, so we headed up there for a quick swim.

 

At this point the heavens opened, but sure, I was wet anyway!

 

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Then, it was back to the hotel to freshen up, because we had a date! A group of 12 of us from the Cruise Critic roll call had agreed to meet for dinner at Casa Dante in Isla Verde. It was a lovely night, with excellent conversation and convivial company, punctuated by the appreciation of an excellent strip steak and mofongo (after hearing Matt recommend it so often, how could I not!). I was also happy to make the acquaintance of Medella, the local beer.

 

We then got a taxi back to the hotel, sat out on the terrace for a few minutes, and then hit the sack.

 

Tomorrow, we would be boarding Jewel of the Seas.

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Once again, I awoke early on Sunday morning and strolled around Condado and the fringes of Old San Juan. I was intrigued to see the local stadium, named after the boxer Sixto Escobar was open to the public to come in and walk around.

 

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Back to the hotel, sort out the bags, have a quick breakfast on the rooftop terrace and reflect on our 36 hours in Hotel Miramar.

 

Initially, we had booked the Quality Inn El Portal in Condado, but got a message from the site we used (otel.com) to say it was unavailable and Miramar had been reserved for us at the same price. On my walk around Coindado earlier that morning, I found the Quality Inn, and it was clesr why it was cancelled. It was closed, and by the look of dilapidation, had been for some time. By coincidence, we had looked at Miramar as an option, and had no hesitation in accepting it. For many, a hotel in Old San Juan is desirable, and I know the Sheraton there is a favourite among cruisers. However, when you factor in the dollar exchange rate against the euro (which is great for US visitors to Europe, but horrendous from our perspective), and the need for transatlantic flights, savings have to be made anywhere you can get them.

 

It was a very nice hotel, a little off the beaten track, but close enough to OSJ. Each floor has a drinks vending matching, which can  be a little noisy, the 2nd floor had an ice machine which was very loud, and maybe it would be an idea to avoid that floor.

 

At 11.05, we left the hotel room, checked out, and caught a cab from the rank beside the hotel to the Pan American pier, which was no more than two miles away. There were relatively few people there when we arrived. We entered the Platinum and above queue, were at the desk within minutes, presented our documents, got our SeaPass cards, had our photo taken and got onto the ship by 11.30.

 

25 minutes from hotel room to Deck 5. No complaints there!

 

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Pauline and I have a running joke that whenever we board a ship, she's on the pool deck, reading, within an hour. No change there then!

 

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It wasn't always that quiet!

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I left her to it and went off to explore. I ended up on Deck 13, watching the planes take off from the small airport beside the pier.

 

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Then, the announcement was made around the ship that cabins were ready, so we went down to Deck 8 and found our E2 Balcony 8638. Everything was fine and our cases were there so we unpacked, stashed the cases and went up to Windjammer for lunch.  

 

That was when we realised the extent of the outdoor seating on Jewel, as I said, it was our first experience of a Radiance class. It seemed to me that the selection in this Windjammer was not as extensive as those on other ships, but finding a seat was never an issue, and that was a major plus.

 

As we sat outside, right at the back, Pauline said "Can we just stay on this ship from now on?" Now I understand the widespread affection for the Radiance class ships.

 

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We had a relaxing afternoon onboard, and made a My Time Dining reservation in the Tides Dining Room for 6.15. Before that, we had a roll call meet up at the Sky Bar, during which we  met Blanche and Michael, another couple we would be spending some time with over the course of the week.

 

At dinner, we sat with Bruce and Pris, another interesting and amiable couple. That was a feature of the week, chatting with different people every day, it seems to me that Jewel was the friendliest ship on which we've sailed.

 

Then it was muster drill, and up on deck for sailaway.

 

An interesting sailaway indeed, watching the city at night as we left, contrasting the lights and bustle with the dark solidity as we passed El Morro, ever watchful at the mouth of San Juan harbour.

 

Sailing past Carnival Liberty was interesting - in a sense, we were seeing her six years late! In 2009, we were booked on a Baltic cruise on Carnival Liberty, but they pulled all their ships out of Europe that year, leaving us with a decision to make. Do a Baltic cruise with Holland America, or cancel completely. In the end, we cancelled and cruised the Western Caribbean on Freedom OTS instead.

 

Had Carnival stayed in Europe and we had sailed on Liberty in 2009, what would our sailing pattern be now?

 

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Back inside for the Welcome Aboard show with John Blair the Cruise Director, his wife Katrina the Activities Manager, and the Jewel OTS Singers and Dancers.

 

I have mixed feelings about John Blair. All CDs have their schtick (Richard Spacey's socks still rank as the most original IMO), and from what I read, John's been at this for longer than most people. He managed to give the impression it was his first cruise and we were the most important people he'd ever met. Professional to the last. Then he did his "I say 'How do you feel' and you shout back 'Great'" thing, before dividing the theatre into a boys against the girls and butchering Sweet Caroline changing 'so good' to 'so great'.

 

Later in the week, he did a Neil Diamond Tribute Show, which at times was very moving and heartfelt, Then, he launched into Sweet Caroline and pulled the same stunt again - John, leave the Cruise Director routine to one side for an hour, it really dragged the show down IMO!.

 

I don't want to say too much, because I know there are people reading this who will be cruising on Jewel soon and will have him on board. I'm also acutely aware that one person's meat is another person's poison, and opinions will be divided.  

 

I will say he's very professional and made me think. Interesting character.

 

Then it was off to bed. Things were looking up, and it seemed a great cruise lay ahead.

 

The next day, I was up walking the decks shortly after dawn, as is my wont.

 

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After a leisurely breakfast, Pauline and I went down to play some morning trivia. We were joined by Judy, who we had met at diner in San Juan, who happened to be passing, and ended up winning by two points!

 

We celebrated by getting all sporty..........well, if it's good enough for Rory Mc Elroy!

 

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My beloved hammered me, so I found solace and comfort in the arms of another woman.

 

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Soon though, it was time for the Cruise Critic Meet and Mingle, with Katrina doing the honours. Among the titbits of knowledge she imparted was that there would be bingo and shopping talks that day..........oh, and she also mentioned something slightly more important. There would be a paella station on deck for lunch!

 

Our plan had been to go to the Seaview Cafe, after listening to Matt sing the praises of the Reuben Sandwiches on the podcast. that was quickly revised, and we ended up having paella to start, followed by the Reuben and onion rings, and then a pink lemonade tart and latte from Cafe Lattetudes. Just as well we did I think that was the only time the Seaview Cafe was open at lunchtime all week.

 

The rest of the time, it was open from early evening until late night, offering "burgers and booze" for $10 (booze not included!!)

 

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The weather was hit and miss at times, some showers, but a lot of sunshine as well. 

 

The truth is, the day was still much better than anything we'd seen in Ireland over the summer, so we were taking advantage while we had it!

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A little later I headed to the cinema to watch Terminator : Genisys, before heading to the Solarium for a swim and soak in the hot tub, followed by a quick scoot into the Shipshape Centre dressing room for a sauna and steam.

 

Two observations - A really cold shower would be a nice addition to the dressing room area, it seemed to me that even on full cold settings, the showers there were at best room temperature to lukewarm.

 

The other thing (and the same held true on Vision), I find it awkward to have to walk through the spa reception area to get to the dressing rooms. On some ships there's a direct path ; I'm sure the spa staff and customers don't want to see me in a pair of shorts and flip-flops walking through their space. How to lower the tone in one easy lesson!

 

Then, it being formal night, we headed to the Tides Dining Room, and I took the only two dinner pictures of the week! Duck for me, sliders for Pauline.

 

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We then went to the theatre for City of Dreams, the first of two production shows that week. Not one of the better shows we've seen, after Up in the Air and Saturday Night Fever on Liberty last year, the stakes have been raised!

 

Then up to the Safari Club to watch The Quest, which John Blair handled very well, before falling into bed for a much needed sleep.

 

Tomorrow, we would be in the place whose name, perhaps more than any other, is synonymous with paradise where we come from - Barbados.

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A little context here. 

 

In 2009, we did the Western Caribbean itinerary on Freedom. Now, for many seasoned cruisers, that's a fairly standard run, but for a family from Ireland who'd never ventured west of Kerry, it was a VERY big deal! On day two of that cruise, we were on the beach at Labadee, Pauline started crying. I immediately asked what was wrong, concerned that something had happened of which I was blissfully unaware.

 

"Ever since I was a kid", she responded, "my vision of paradise has been sun, white sand, turquiose water and palm trees. I thought I'd never see it, but I'm here!"

 

That idea is, I reckon, due in no small part to a one hit wonder that was huge when she was nine years old - 

 


 

I'm not sure how much airplay that had in the US, but in the UK and Ireland, it was constantly on the radio for months! 

 

When I asked her what ship or itinerary she wanted for her birthday cruise, her answer was "I want to go to Barbados".

 

I'd actually been looking at an Eastern Mediterranean cruise on Splendour, but she's the boss!

 

Finally, the day had arrived, and as we cruised into Bridgetown, the Bajan Coastguard was there to greet us. 

 

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We had thought long and hard about what to do there, and you'd think after the Typically Tropical song, the beach would be top of the list. Of course that would be logical, but we're Irish. We decided to go underground and visit Harrison's Cave!.

 

We booked the Harrison's Cave and Island Tour excursion through Royal Caribbean (we normally go independently, but this tour suited what we wanted), so after a quick breakfast, we were downstairs and 40+ years after the seeds of the dream were sown, we walked onto the island of Barbados.

 

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We found the bus without any difficulty, and soon we were heading out of Bridgetown and heading for the centre of the island. One thing we were struck by is the speed with which after leaving the cruise port, the harsh reality of life for local people is thrown into sharp focus.

 

We have been guilty of the notion that everyone on a Caribbean island is living in paradise, and why would any of them actually want to move to the rain and cold of the UK or wherever. Within two miles of the ship, that question is answered!

 

This was a mansion compared to some of the dwellings we saw.

 

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Soon, we were approaching Welchman Hall Gully, and ready for our descent underground.

 

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This is the electric tram you travel on through the cave, getting out at a number of points to appreciate the spectacle. Our guide was excellent, clear and concise information, very well spoken, and clearly proud of the island, and what had been achieved in developing Harrison's Cave as an attraction.

 

A word of explanation...........I'm not a great photographer, and my camera is a fairly cheap off the shelf digital camera with no bells or whistles.

 

That's why the few pics of the interior of the caves I'm going to post don't do them any justice whatsoever. The caves are wonderful, stalagmites and stalactites everywhere in various formations, some thousands of years old, some merely decades old. One area has so many it's called 'The Village'.

 

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This is one of the newer formations.

 

At one point, with the guide's permission, I leaned in towards one of the streams and scooped up a palm full of water to drink. That's what you call fresh!

 

As a slight moan, the blurb for the tour (which cost $79 each) indicated that "complimentary beverages would be offered at the cave", They weren't, and we ended up buying water in the gift shop. Given that it was a hot day, water was necessary, and to be promised it and then not get it was a little annoying. 

 

That said, nothing could take from the majesty and sense of history of the cave. I should also say that before going into the cave there was a little interpretative centre and display, including a video on how Barbados and other islands were formed, which provided a very nice context for the rest of the islands. It was a very well planned and thought out presentation, full marks to the tourist board and backers of that particular project.

 

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Then we travelled back via a different route, passing some of the plantations that provided the backbone of the economy when sugar cane was the main Bajan export.

 

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I was particularly taken by this educational establishment. If I ever go back to college, this is where I want to go.

 

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Then, we were back at the port, where we strolled around the shops, and walked towards Bridgetown along Princess Alice Highway.

 

All too soon, we had to retrace our steps.

 

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One final stop, for what was going to become a habit of mine for the cruise. I'm not a big alcohol drinker, and Pauline doesn't drink at all. I have the occasional beer, and really mean that. However, out of interest, I had one bottle of Banks beer in the bar at the cruise terminal before we got back on board, and sampling the local beer before getting back on board became a feature of every port. We have the Royal Replenish pakages, so I drank no alcohol on the ship (apart from the champagne at the C&A events!).

 

That night, Rick Novell did a very enjoyable physical comedy show in the theatre, while there was late night adult comedy from Mike Marino. He had also done a set on the first night, and as an amateur actor who also does a bit of stand up in local clubs as a hobby, I enjoyed them both immensely. 

 

Because most of our cruises are in Europe where ships are more multilingual, the emphasis is more on magic, juggling and acrobatics rather than spoken word. Having comedy up front and centre was a whole new experience for us.

 

We left the theatre and headed straight for bed. We had a busy day ahead in St Lucia.

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One of the questions asked on our roll call before we left was "Would the ship be passing the Pitons on our approach to St Lucia, and if so, at what time?". When I went up on deck for my early morning walk, I was quickly able to answer that question. Yes, we passed the pitons. I took this at 6.07am.

 

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Very soon, I noticed a speck on the horizon which was getting nearer. After leaving San Juan 24 hours before us, Adventure of the Seas was on our tail!

 

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Before too long, we were pulling into Castries for a tour to which I had been looking forward since first reading about it online some months before. In light of Matt's experiences in St Lucia in 2013, I probably researched it more than any other port.

 

We were booked on the Land and Sea Tour with Herod, along with Blanche and Michael, four others from Jewel, and another four from Adventure. The pick up went smoothly. We were met by Clyde, while Herod himself was at the other pier picking up the Adventure quartet. Soon, we were all together, and heading south on the island's only real main road.

 

As we passed, Herod pointed out Derek Walcott Square, the governor's house and other landmarks, before we made our first stop at a banana plantation.

 

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A little while later, we stopped at a viewing point near Anse La Raye, before driving through Anse and Canaries, two fishing villages.

 

As I noted in Barbados, there was very evident poverty, and at times I felt like an intruder. However, as Herod pointed out, tourism is far and away the biggest economic activity on the island, so by visiting the island and sending some money, at least we were doing something practical to help the economy.

 

Such thoughts were soon pushed to the back of my mind when we turned a corner, and there, looming over the town of Soufriere, were the Pitons in all their glory!

 

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Looking over the town, we could see the steam coming from the vents of the volcano which gives Soufriere it's name. The literal English translation is "sulphur in the air".

 

We headed over there for the next stop, and something I was really looking forward to - the mud baths at Sulphur Springs. Pauline had insisted she wasn't going in, but when we got there, she relented, inspired no doubt by the promises of feeling energetic, renewed and ten years younger.

 

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It certainly did feel wonderful, several people comparing it favourably to spa treatments which cost considerably more than our entire tour. As for my beloved, her hip is not in great shape, and she did say it felt better after she came out.

 

We drove past the steaming vents, and then headed back towards Soufriere for what would prove to be one of the highlights of the cruise - Lunch at Herod's mother's house.

 

Now, the website and blurb make this seem like we're dropping in to the house and eating at the kitchen table. The reality is there is a restaurant style seating area with a buffet and some servers, but this does not detract from the fact that the meal was superb, one of the best of the entire week.

 

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Banana Cake, made from fruit grown just up the road!

 

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The last picture is the house, just across from the seating area. The house is located at the entrance to the Hotel Chocolat.

 

It was a sublime experience, with superb views of Petit Piton and wonderful creole style food. Soon, we were getting back on board our van, with it's well stocked cool box offering unlimited water, soft drinks, Piton Beer and the inevitable rum punch. 

 

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After a meal like that, the tendency is to feel a little sleepy, so Herod has a masterplan to counter that. The next stop is Toraille Waterfall, for a power shower like no other!

 

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Just what the doctor ordered. Then, wide awake and ready for anything, we headed back into Soufriere, where we said good bye to Herod. As I said at the outset, this is the Land and Sea Tour, and having completed the land portion, we were left in the hands of Mario, and his speedboat, Sugar and Spice.

 

Clyde stayed with us as well, and we left Soufriere to hit Sugar Beach at Jalousie.

 

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Herod sees us off.

 

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We headed off at a gentle pace with the pitons at our backs to visit the "batcave", home of thousands of fruit bats.

 

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Then, we turned around, and Mario hit the turbo boost. It was full steam ahead towards Sugar Beach.

 

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We arrived at the beach, and soon, Clyde had found a few unoccupied 'free' chairs, which we gladly accepted.

 

Some of the more adventurous members of our party went snorkelling, while others (ie. us) lay back and took it all in, before going for a gentle swim.

 

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Matt I know you pointed out on your podcast review that tours aren't your thing, and I well know how hard it is planning things with kids. I will say thought, for hitting all the spots, getting a mixture of culture, activity and beach, and most importantly, getting a sense of having visited the island, a tour like Herod's is hard to beat! 

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One or two people elected to stay on the boat while we enjoyed the white sands and blue waters of Jalousie, but soon it was time to wash the sand from our feet , wave a final goodbye to the pitons, and set a course for Castries.

 

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We made one more brief stop in Marigot Bay to see how the other half live. This is the site of a number of resorts and high class hotels, and also the area in which Rex Harrison's Doctor Dolittle was filmed. I don't know about talking to The Animals, but if you wanted to talk to a Rolling Stone, you could try your luck.

 

Mick Jaggers's house is on a hilltop overlooking the bay!

 

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Then after a last exhilarating ride over the waves, we were back in Castries, and after dropping off our friends from Adventure, we headed back to Jewel, beaming after a wonderful tour.

 

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Standing on deck waiting for sailaway, I looked down over the terminal building, to see a claim with which I will not quibble.

 

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As we backed out of the port, I noticed Adventure's outside screen was showing the image on its bow camera, on which Jewel could be seen! I surprised myself by managing to get this pic!

 

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I like this angle, taken from Deck 12 forward as we reversed past Adventure. It was nice seeing her again, Pauline and I had spent a few days on her in 2011.

 

We were lucky with the weather, it rained as we left Castries that morning, but it had stopped before we got to the banana plantation.

 

That afternoon, it poured again just after sailaway. A short time later, I was up by the mini golf area, just in time to get this shot,

 

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That evening, we went to the Longfellow Serende, the Neil Diamond tribute show presented by John Blair. I would recommend it, by and large a well thought out piece that goes beyond the obvious hits. My own feeling is if John took off the Cruise Director hat for a while, it would be much improved.

 

But maybe that's just me.

 

That evening was the Dancing Under The Stars pool party. We made it up for about 15 minutes, but left long before the buffet came out.

 

We'd eaten our fill that day, and were ready for bed. Tomorrow we would be in Antigua, and the plan was to head for a beach (probably Valley Church), and just relax for a few hours.

 

That was the plan................

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Next morning, we docked in St John's, Antigua, and it was clear this was not going to be a very sunny day. The sky was overcast and threatening rain, so we dismissed the idea of going to the beach for the day.

 

We had already decided that Thursday would be a lazy day, so we had ordered room service breakfast which we ate on the balcony before reading and relaxing for a bit.

 

We eventually decided to get off the ship, stroll into St John's and maybe get a taxi to Nelson's Dockyard which I had read about in my pre-cruise research.

 

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As we got off, we heard the strains of a steel band, welcoming us to Antigua. It certainly added a nice touch, and I must say of the three steel bands we saw over the course of the cruise, this one was the most 'authentic', with no guitar or keyboard to beef up the sound. As you'll see from the ground, there had been a hell of a shower just a while before we got off.

 

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This was by far my favourite restaurant name of the week. I was very tempted to stop off there for lunch.

 

Needless to say, there were taxi drivers galore touring for business, one of whom, Gregory, offered us a tour of the island going to Nelson's Dockyard and returning via the rainforest for $20 each, provided he could get another couple to share the van.

 

We agreed, and gave him 10 minutes. Just as we were losing hope, he arrived back with Richard and Sharon from the UK, and another couple from the US, whose names I have totally forgotten I'm sorry to say. Then, intoductions made, off we headed.

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This being the Caribbean, cricket is the major sport on the island, and so after a  brief tour of the town, we arrived at the Sir Viv Richards Cricket Ground. I got the feeling Gregory was delighted that his clients were anxious to stop off for a look.

 

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Then, after a stop off at a viewing point over Falmouth and Emnglish Harbour, we arrived at Nelson's Dockyard. Thankfully, the sun made a brief appearance at this point. Not for the day, unfortunately, but long enough to give us some nice photos.

 

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We arrived at the dockyard, and all elected to buy tickets to go in. We were given half an hour, just enough to do the brief tour and get a flavour of the place, while also sheltering from the huge shower that came down half way through.

 

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Inside the Dockyard Museum there were some very nice exhibits, including to our UK friends' delight, a painting of a very young Prince Charles.

 

A quick visit to the museum shop to buy some souvenirs was followed by a dash to the bakery behind it for a pineapple based pastry which was absolutely delicious.

 

Then we drove past the rainforest back to St John's, where I noticed a number of adverts for funeral insurance policies, and more uniquely, obituary notices on billboards. That was certainly a  new one on me!

 

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As we got out of the taxi, Gregory pointed out that there was a very nice Belgian Ice Cream bar nearby. Well, when you get advice like that, it's only good manners to follow it!

 

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Then we headed back to the pier, but not before stopping off at the Cheers bar for some Wadadli beer for me and a Diet Coke for Pauline . It was expensive ($9 for the two) but tasty, and after slaking our thirst, we got back on board to prepare for a special event.

 

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This was our first cruise as Platinum C&A members, and we had been invited to the Top Tier event on the helipad for sailaway that evening.

 

While there, we et up once again with Blanche and Michael.

 

It was an enjoyable sailaway, as we waved goodbye to Antigua with glass in hand.

 

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That evening was a busy one in the theatre. The singers and dancers did their second production show "West End to Broadway", which once again underwhelmed  me. 

 

Then, the Love and Marriage Game Show was followed by late night comedy from Jeff Jenna. Very enjoyable.

 

However, that was more than enough monkeying around for us for one night, and back we headed to our cabin to say hello to our latest new friend.

 

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Awesome Review, very much enjoyed reading. The wife and I are on Adventure leaving on the 12th and will be stopping at a few of the same ports, was thinking of doing the Land and Sea tour in St Lucia. How much time were you able to get on the beach.

 

We were on the beach for about an hour or so, which was plenty of time for me. Personally, I found the balance was just right.

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Thanks everyone for your encouragement, and for anyone doing this trip or a similar one on either Jewel or Adventure, be sure to listen back to Matt's preview and review of his 2013 cruise (Episodes 7 and 9).

 

The San Juan (57) and St Maarten (40) episodes are also very useful.

 

Speaking of which, suddenly, it was Friday, and the weather forecast was better. Just as well, because we were heading to St Maarten, an island I've wanted to visit for a long time. As for why I've wanted to go there, the answer is the obvious one - Maho Beach and the planes.

 

Obviously, that was going to be a feature of the day, but in deference to my beloved (whose birthday cruise this was, after all), I looked for a tour that would satisfy us both, and found a nice one with Bernard's Tours.  

 

An island drive with time on Orient Beach and free time Marigot before heading for Maho to see the afternoon arrivals.

 

It seemed the perfect match, so we booked it online several weeks before departure.

 

I was also looking forward to saying hello to Liberty of the Seas, having spent a very happy week on her in 2014 (Episode 67 ;)).

 

As we approached Philipsburg, I was walking on deck 12, and saw a shape ahead of us which indeed proved to be Liberty on her way into port.

 

She was waiting for us as we pulled up alongside.

 

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We were meeting up with our group for a 9am departure, and we left pretty much on time As we drove out of Philipsburg we passed a church. Nothing strange about that, we'd seen plenty over the past few days.

 

Not all of them were surrounded by old fridges and washing machines though!

 

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Soon we were passing the Oyster Pond resort, and crossing from Dutch Sint Maarten into French St Martin.

 

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That last shot is looking over St Barts, home to many people including, according to our guide Simon, Judge Judy.

 

Soon, we were at Le Galion Beach where we stopped for some photos from the Coralita lookout post.

 

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The main reason for stopping there though was to meet Calvin, the self styled "Sea Urchin Dude". His specialty was carefully allowing you hold live sea urchins and conches, while giving short talks on their habitat.

 

It was a fascinating few minutes, and well worth the few bucks we threw into his tip jar.

 

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Then, a trip up the road go meet another guy, this time focusing on iguanas, Clive showed us how to hold one properly, the skin is a lot more velvety than it looks!

 

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Next, we stopped off for 90 minutes or so at Orient Beach, where for a reduced rate we could rent chairs and get a complimentary punch. We did so, and enjoyed the relaxation.

 

The water was beautiful, and I can understand why this is one of the best regarded beaches in the world.

 

We were intrigued about the massage sign at the entrance, 30 minutes and about 15 different offers later, we understood.

 

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There were several people offering massages and selling knick-knacks up and down the beach, but they were by no means pushy.

 

Into the water we went for a beautiful swim, the waves were excellent, and the temperature was just right.

 

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This last thingummyjig is called a flyboard, apparently. I'd never seen one before. An amazing yoke altogether!

 

Off we headed again shortly after noon, bound for the French Capital - Marigot.

 

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One of the first things you notice is this shipwreck, which has been there since Hurricane Lenny in 1999.

 

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Marigot is where Speed 2 - Cruise Control was filmed, culminating with Seaborn Legend crashing into the seafront. Needless to say, the actual seafront in Marigot looks nothing like the scene in the film. All of the buildings featured in that scene were models, except this one, the public toilets.

 

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It was now lunchtime, so the question was if we were in France, could we find a shop selling fresh ham and cheese baguettes?

 

Oh yes!

 

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Le Divin, and it lived up to its name!  We spent a little more time around Marigot, not enough time to visit Fort Louis, unfortunately, but as is so often the case, we vowed to come back.

 

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I must be honest, at this stage I'm getting a bit excited. In fact, it's a feeling not unlike the one I had before we drove the Grand Prix circuit in Monaco last year.

 

Having watched videos of planes coming over Maho Beach for so long online, we were finally on our way there!

 

We left the French side, and soon crossed the border into Dutch territory again.

 

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Then, we crossed the bridge leading to the airport, turned the corner, and the airport came into view.

 

Suddenly, my excitement level rose even more, and I mouthed an expletive under my breath. "What's wrong?", asked Pauline. I pointed to a blue shape in the airport grounds and gasped "It's the KLM".

 

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Yep - The KLM 747 was on the apron, and provided it was a reasonably quick turnaround, we were in time for the ultimate take off.

 

The area has obviously developed a lot in recent years, videos I've seen show the Sunset Bar as a small bar on the corner of the beach. Now, it's a lot bigger than that!

 

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Soon, we were treated to the first approaching jet, and a Delta flew over before landing. I took two shots of it, and to be honest, didn't bother for the rest of the time. I just put the camera down, got into the water, watched and listened.

 

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We saw three more jets and a few smaller planes land while we were there, after the Delta I decided to leave the camera down and just savour the moment

 

Maho is, I suspect, one of those places where there is a risk of it being underwhelming. Not in my case.

 

Of course that's partly due to the fact that shortly after the Delta landed, a very loud whine came from the airport. That could only mean one thing - KLM was on the move.

 

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I don't have great balance so I stayed well to the side, those who stood directly behind were blown and buffeted by the savage power of the Jumbo's four engines.

 

Then, it was time to return to Philipsburg, where we'd been joined in port

by MSC Divina.

 

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We considered going into Philipsburg itself, but after a packed day, we left the town centre for another time and  stayed around the port for a while, taking a Caribe beer and buying a few souvenirs before reboarding. A little later, we got to watch Liberty sail away.

 

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The rest of the night was predictable. We ate in the MDR, watched a bit of The Edge Effect, a vocal harmony group in the theatre, and went to see Ant Man in the cinema. Some people had popcorn, I never saw where it came from. Then, I heard a few people muttering about the price, so it obviously wasn't free. 

 

Later on, our heads hit the pillow, and it was Goodnight Irene!

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Time moves strangely on cruise ships, for me at any rate - The first few hours drift lazily by after embarkation. The first full day, particularly if it is at sea, is like a long luxurious soak in a hot bath, with no sense of urgency.

 

By the time the last day comes, time flies like a hot shower, and in St Croix, that was literally the case.

 

Our plan for the day was to hit the local beach, spend some time in town, relax and then return to the ship. The forecast was not great - Partly cloudy, showers, wind.

 

As I walked the jogging track on Deck 12 that morning, I struck up a conversation with a young woman I'd seen out there every morning, the latest in a series of friendly encounters which made an impression. The weather was clearly not good, it had rained overnight, and would clearly do so very soon again.

 

Still though, the early morning sky was beautiful as we approached St Croix.

 

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At my request, we decided to have breakfast in the MDR, and were seated with a group of new cruisers from Canada and Richard and Sharon, the couple we'd shared the taxi with in Antigua, two days earlier. 

 

I wanted to to this because I love Royal's Eggs Benedict, but for some reason on that day, there was no buffet and everything was being served at the tables. That put the servers under pressure and delayed things considerably. Whether it points to a noro issue, I do not know.

 

Inevitably, talk was already straying towards the depressing topics of packing, flights etc. Nooooo, my brain silently screamed, as I tried to steer the conversation towards what we were going to do that day.

 

At this point, the rain was teeming down, and as soon as it stopped, we grabbed our towels and headed out, bound for Frederiksted and the beach right beside the port. It should have been jammed, but it was virtually deserted.

 

We left the ship after 10am, and met scores of people coming back, already having spent some time ashore. We persevered into the port area, and within minutes were sheltering under a gazebo during a heavy shower.

 

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Once the rain cleared, I strolled through the part of downtown Frederiksted

closest to the port. Having been in the bustling towns of Castries and St John's during the week, this was a sharp contrast.

 

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I know that St Croix has had issues, and the cruise ships are only now beginning to return. I hope it succeeds, and this town can thrive again. Sadly, the weather was severely impacting on this cruise's interaction with local people and more importantly for them, the amount of money being injected into the local economy.

 

We had intended renting beach chairs, maybe eating lunch on the beach, but it was clear that the pattern for the day was going to be intermittent heavy showers and very little sun.

 

We just plonked our bags and towels onto the sand, took the obligatory "ship in the background" selfie, and got into the water. Tomorrow, we would be heading back to the Irish winter, this was our last chance to swim in the Caribbean for some time, and by God we were taking it!

 

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That beach should have been packed, the water should have been jammed with people. The beach bar, which should have been doing a roaring trade was deserted, there were no more than 10 people dotted around the beach.

 

The colour of the sky in the last picture is an indication why.

 

I'd like to go back to St Croix, to see it on a sunny day when it will look its best. I'd like to relax on the beach, visit the museum in Fort Frederik , we intended to, but after three very heavy showers over the course of the time we were ashore, we were wet and just wanted to get back onto the ship.

 

We went to eat lunch in Windjammer, sat in the outdoor seating at the back, but had to move very quickly when a huge shower was accompanied by some very strong wind made us feel right at home!

 

The cruise director cancelled most outdoor activity on the pool deck, and instead, Mission Impossible - Rogue Nation was shown in the theatre.

 

As we left, perhaps more so than any other port, I said goodbye with a sense of unfinished business. We had hoped for a little more from St Croix, and it had certainly hoped for a little more from us!

 

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That night was a night of finality - Our final night in the MDR, final trip to the sauna, steam room and whirlpool, final virgin cocktail in the Solarium and final visit to the theatre for the farewell show.

 

Cases were packed and left out, we had an 11.10 flight out of San Juan the next day, and were booked for a 7.30 departure off the ship. For the last time, we crawled under those wonderful Royal Caribbean sheets as Captain Dustin and his crew steered us back to San Juan.

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One observation from the point of a newbie to San Juan. As  I indicated, I had registered for the 7.30 departure off the ship, and we were at the theatre as instructed 10 minutes before.

 

It went like clockwork, and as I expected, we were approached by a porter when we got into the baggage hall.

 

I nodded, he helped with the bags, guided us through customs, and had our cases in the back of a taxi before you could say "that was quick!" We were at the airport within 40 minutes of leaving our cabin, enough time for a stroll around the airport while beloved read a book!

 

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We went in, checked in, in plenty of time for our flight to JFK.

 

On our first day in San Juan, we'd looked across the bay from Raices and looked at the area's most iconic factory.

 

Now, in the Duty Free Shop, its produce was on prominent display!

 


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We boarded our plane without incident, and were soon taxiing to the runway, crossing over what appeared to be a main road in the process.

 

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The flight was uneventful - I was happy to see Fantastic 4 was one of the free movie options, but it turned out to be the dubbed Spanish version!

 

Either way we were soon flying over Long Island and into JFK.

 

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We landed at JFK at 1.20pm, with three hours to make our Aer Lingus connection to Dublin. We came in to Gate 9 in Terminal 5. Aer Lingus uses Gate 11. Judging by what I saw from my window as we taxied to a stop, I reckoned we'd probably make it!

 

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And we did.

 

We even had time for lunch.

 

As we sat in the concourse eating our Cheeburger Cheeburger (never heard of it before, good burger and excellent onion rings), a lady passed. "She's the spitting image of Liz", observed Pauline.

 

We had sent a lot of time with Liz and her husband and two adult children on Liberty a year earlier, they hail from Limerick.

 

I looked closely, and realised there was a  very good reason she looked like Liz. She was Liz! It transpired she, her sister and daughter and other assorted female clan members were returning to Shannon after a few days shopping in the Big Apple. We chatted for a while, and then went on our way, reflecting that if you stand still in JFK for long enough, you're bound to see someone you know!

 

Before too long, we boarded on time and were soon in the air, landing at Dublin Airport at 4.10am our time. We picked up the car, drove 150 miles home, and arrived at our front door just before 8am.

 

As we were falling into bed, Jewel of the Seas was heading towards St Thomas. Hard to believe had been on board less than 24 hours earlier!

 

After a few hours it was get up, do some shopping, check e-mails, and real life slowly consumed us again. Ever since though, there's been an extra little pep in our step.

 

I admitted at the start that I would have been happy with Europe. Now, I'd happily go back to San Juan and do the other islands in the region. And then go back to the ones we've been to already...........maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon.........

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